Saree Stories
As a young girl coming of age in a Marwari joint family, I have grown up helping my mother drape her sarees. I remember cautiously clasping the beautiful fabric as she created practiced, careful pleats that left me awestruck by their perfection. I now recognize this is what makes the saree a sartorial symbol of such deep significance- not simply it’s beauty and association with feminine grace, but the ancestral heritage and historical knowledge of draping and adorning this traditional weave.
Understanding the etymology of the word itself – Saree – unveils the layers of it’s history. Not only the linguistic evolution of the term, but also the cultural and philosophical contexts that shaped it’s meaning. The roots of this word provide us with the knowledge of the saree’s interweaving with mythology, tradition and links to ancient beliefs and religious practices, as well as the evolving role of women in society. The word saree (also spelled sari) originates from the Sanskrit word śāṭī (शाटी), meaning a strip of cloth. Over time, as Sanskrit evolved into Prakrit and later into regional languages, śāṭī transformed into sāḍī (साडी) in Prakrit, which then became sari (साड़ी) in Hindi and other Indian languages. In Vedic literature, the saree is a symbol of not only modesty or protection, but a profound tie to dharma (righteous living), purity, and ritual significance. The term’s origins bear a phonetic connection to the goddess Sati, a Hindu goddess who symbolizes marital devotion and feminine power. Sati was the first wife of Lord Shiva, and her name means “the one who is true” or “pure”, which indicates the perception of the garment in society.
The origins of the garment can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, which flourished during 2800–1800 BCE around the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent. The fact that the saree has remained largely unchanged for thousands of years, retaining it’s draped form, indicates cultural resilience. The garment is adaptable, as it can be worn in over a 100 ways, with different styles of drapery, embroidery, printing, motifs and fabric, but still maintains it’s original identity. This nature of fulidity is it’s strength- it is niether rigid, nor confined by time, and continues to evolve it’s functional purpose while preserving it’s essence.
A saree tells a story—not just through its colors and textures, but through the way it is draped, the motifs it bears, and the cultural weight it carries. Across India, women drape the saree in numerous styles, each reflecting their region, history, and even their personal strength. The Nivi drape, the most common modern style, allows for mobility and modernity, whereas the Madisar drape, worn by Tamil Brahmin women, embodies religious discipline and orthodoxy. The Bengali Athpourey drape, with its unstitched elegance, recalls the freedom of pre-colonial Bengal, where women were unbound by tailored constraints. The seedha pallu drape of Gujarat and Rajasthan exudes a regal grace, often associated with Marwari women who carry centuries of tradition within their folds.
The saree, aross the pages of istory, has stood as a testament for feminity, resilience, grace and bravery. In one of the greatest epics the word has known, the ancient text of the Mahabharat, the saree is a poignant symbol of divine intervention, and unwavering female strength, particularly in the face of humiliation. During the Draupadi Vastraharan, every tenet of Dharma was broken in a court filled with of the great minds of age when the queen’s saree was pulled in presence of the full court in an attempt to disrobe and insult her. This act of defying morality and respect for the sacredness and privacy of not only the queen, but all women, continues to raise numerous questions in each generation. In this story, the saree stands as the most poignant symbol for ethicality, dignity and integrity, which when extended endlessly by Krishna in an act of protection, becomes a symbol of faith and justice forcing the disrespectful males to realize their sin.
From divine intervention, the saree has also extended to armour. Rani Padmavati, the Rajputana queen famed across the world for the unparalleled beauty, adorned her royal rajasthani poshak saree along with all the other hundereds of women of her kingdom while leading them into Jauhar, an act of female self sacrifice after all the men of the village perished in war. This act of leaping into flames rather than surrendering to the men of the opposing Mughal army, known for their vicious war crimes with women, proves the self-determination of women.
The saree has been silent witness to struggles and triumphs, a fabric of resistance worn by women who fought for dignity and freedom. Not only in the Mahabharat and Rajputana, but in various phases of history. As the Mughal invaders brought with them a refined sense of luxury, the saree became a became a site of cultural exchange, resistance, and transformation. This led to the creation of intricate brocades, silk weaves, and gold-threaded motifs, such as the Banarasi saree. In the Indian Independence Movement, khadi sarees were a sign of cultural identity presevation and freedom. Even today, the modern woman embraces the saree, as a symbol of continuity, self-expression and empowerment, a manner of reflecting her evolving identity.
1928 illustration of different styles of sari, gagra choli & shalwar kameez worn by women of South Asia.